Kibera

Recently, I spent a day in the slums of Kibera visiting disabled entrepreneurs with our flatmate Gareth, who works with a disability charity. I decided to wait a little to blog about it, to let the initial impressions sink in. Kibera is a big place, the size of Central Park in New York, a self-contained town within a city. Kibera is an impressive place, they may not have running water or proper sanitation in their homes but residents never have to leave the slums: there are schools, hospitals, butchers, mobile phone shops, banks even.

The 1^st sensation you get being in Kibera is the smell, it can be overpowering as you step over flying toilets and past open sewers. Homes do not have toilets, and whilst there are toilets in Kibera, you have to pay to use them, if you don’t have any money the street is your only choice. Walking through Kibera, a lot of people stare at you as a ‘mzungu ‘or white person but not many actually beg from you. Sometimes, it is the small children who ask for 20 bob/ksh and when you say no, they ask for 1000Ksh instead or it is the drunks who ask to for 50 to help get them there next beer or changa’a. I don’t mind saying no to the drunks but it is very tough saying no to the children and you have to because if you do give them something, anything then, you will attract a crowd.

A lot of the children are just curious of a white person. They will say ‘How are you!’ and are little disappointed when you respond in kiswahili. But, you when you say ‘good, how are you!’ and shake their hands; they love it and run away giggling.

Personal safety as a mzungu was a concern, but walking through Kibera we were accompanied by Geoffrey, a colleague of Gareth's. I thought of him during the day as a local celebrity, as every 25 yards or so he would be stopped to chat. Then I remembered that was just how all Kenyan people are, you cannot walk past somebody you known without stopping and shaking hands. It was mentioned that we would probably be physically safe (though you might lose your wallet). If people are caught stealing in Kibera (particular from locals), the residents apparently dish out their own justice, I doubt whether that involves a fair trial.

The residents of Kibera have representation at parliament; in fact their MP is the Prime Minister Raila Odinga. He is the Mzee or ‘big man’ for Kibera and is worshipped by the locals; there is huge local pride of having their man as PM and possibly the next president. However, we have heard from other people in Nairobi that the people in the slums could have proper accommodation with water, light and sanitation practically overnight but that because this would displace Odinga’s voting bloc it doesn’t happen. The truth of that statement notwithstanding, it was interesting to gain a local person's perspective on Kibera.

The development needs in Kibera are huge and this is recognised internationally. To help alleviate these needs there are a large number of NGOs operating in the Kibera. In fact, on our way into Kibera via matatu, there were 3 other white passengers which caused one of the Kenyan passengers to call out to the conductor calling in him ‘Obama’, alluding to the Kenyan in a sea of white faces. Which reminds me, walking through Kibera; we passed the White House Obama pub (we didn’t get a chance to pop in and have a jar!)

I’ve already posted the view of Kibera from our flat showing how close it is to us, however in order to get to the other side unaccompanied where Gareth’s office is we had to take 2 matatus: one into town and another to Kibera, a journey which can take up to 2 hours. Getting back, after meeting some of the locals, I walked home in 10 minutes, down the hill across the bridge across Ngong river (I say river, its a stream blocked with rubbish and waste) and then back up the hill home.

I won’t forget my first visit to Kibera or the people I met (I will no doubt tell you about them soon), I’m glad I went and I will certainly go back.