... and Eddie says 'why the long face?'
This was taken at the Giraffe Centre in Karen, Nairobi, last Sunday.
24 November 2010
A giraffe walks into a bar...
... and Eddie says 'why the long face?'
This was taken at the Giraffe Centre in Karen, Nairobi, last Sunday.
Mpango wa kando
So we have been hearing quite a bit about 'mpango wa kando', or the 'plan B' or 'spare tyre' since we arrived in Kenya. It started out as a campaign slogan with good intentions in terms of HIV/ AIDS education. The idea is that, if you're being unfaithful to your husband or wife you should be honest with them, or you risk passing on HIV. So far so worthy...
Needless to say all has not quite gone to plan for the campaign. Infidelity in Kenya is massive. It's a religious society and marriage is very much for life. On the other hand, quite a number of traditional Kenyan societies had no issue with polygamy, and so the seed is there (for men in particular*) to think that adding another string to their bow might not be such a bad idea. The result is your 'plan B' or 'spare tyre' - a girlfriend (or occasionally boyfriend) kept in reserve for a rainy day.
Mpango wa kando has hence become something of a boys' club joke - 'you got a spare tyre? High five!'. Now, instead of encouraging people to be honest, it's just a bit of back-slapping for the chaps.
Mpango wa kando has only been the first of many interesting insights into Kenyan ideas about marriage and relationships. On a lot of matatus the radio blares constantly, and Classic FM is a popular choice (and ideal if you like listening to Kenny Rogers, Mel C and George Michael on the way to work). One morning on our way in we heard one of the DJs starting a discussion all about 'Why are women so mean to their exes?'. The question posed was: 'Ladies, if your ex called you from jail asking for bail money, what would you do?'. Errr....
The weekend problem pages have been full of insight too (when are they not?). Check this out:
At 39, I am yet to find a woman who loves me
However, in the last few weeks we've met with lots of strong, independent Kenyan women who really don't fit the stereotype, and who are tough cookies perfectly prepared to stand up and say their piece.
Either way, we look forward to picking up our newspaper or listening to the radio.
Just a final note to close: apologies to Jo (of awesome duo Jo and Gareth) - in a previous post I may have implicated her in Gareth's Yorkshireness. Many apologies for this racial slur Jo.
*no pun intended!
Needless to say all has not quite gone to plan for the campaign. Infidelity in Kenya is massive. It's a religious society and marriage is very much for life. On the other hand, quite a number of traditional Kenyan societies had no issue with polygamy, and so the seed is there (for men in particular*) to think that adding another string to their bow might not be such a bad idea. The result is your 'plan B' or 'spare tyre' - a girlfriend (or occasionally boyfriend) kept in reserve for a rainy day.
Mpango wa kando has hence become something of a boys' club joke - 'you got a spare tyre? High five!'. Now, instead of encouraging people to be honest, it's just a bit of back-slapping for the chaps.
Mpango wa kando has only been the first of many interesting insights into Kenyan ideas about marriage and relationships. On a lot of matatus the radio blares constantly, and Classic FM is a popular choice (and ideal if you like listening to Kenny Rogers, Mel C and George Michael on the way to work). One morning on our way in we heard one of the DJs starting a discussion all about 'Why are women so mean to their exes?'. The question posed was: 'Ladies, if your ex called you from jail asking for bail money, what would you do?'. Errr....
The weekend problem pages have been full of insight too (when are they not?). Check this out:
At 39, I am yet to find a woman who loves me
However, in the last few weeks we've met with lots of strong, independent Kenyan women who really don't fit the stereotype, and who are tough cookies perfectly prepared to stand up and say their piece.
Either way, we look forward to picking up our newspaper or listening to the radio.
Just a final note to close: apologies to Jo (of awesome duo Jo and Gareth) - in a previous post I may have implicated her in Gareth's Yorkshireness. Many apologies for this racial slur Jo.
*no pun intended!
22 November 2010
I say get me off this death-trap!
I would write an entry about matatus but our flatmates have done a better job than I could have done so here it is:
http://gazandjonairobi.blogspot.com/2010/11/riding-mariah-carey-to-work.html
Its worth a read for the title alone 'riding mariah carey to work'
http://gazandjonairobi.blogspot.com/2010/11/riding-mariah-carey-to-work.html
Its worth a read for the title alone 'riding mariah carey to work'
19 November 2010
You say matatu...
This week has largely been the week of the matatu. These kamikaze 14-seater mini-vans are the main public transport system in Nairobi, and I seem to have spent a large part of my waking hours sat on them. My current commute is taking nearly two hours in each direction, as I cross the city from Langata in the South West to Umoja in the East, journeying into central Nairobi and then back out the other side. Nairobi's roads are completely clogged with traffic, and spew smog and dirt over everything. The matatus approach the ever-present congestion with a wild disregard for traffic rules and common sense, and a macho camaraderie that makes the A-Team look a bit girly. The legal ones are battered, but the illegal ones are even more battered and simultaneously pimped-up with paint jobs and banging stereos. They even have names like 'Romance' and 'Mariah Carey' (really) - I went on one yesterday that had a TV.
My first week at work has generally been good - the team are lovely, although quite stretched. I'm working from home today while the electricity is down in Umoja, but in the office on Saturday for a meeting of the regional coordinators where I'll be running a SWOT and PEST brainstorm - hope it goes well!
Things I have seen outside my office this week:
- a camel
- a herd of cows
- live chickens in baskets
- sofas for sale
- pineapples
- a man shouting 'sister Rooney, sister Rooney!' at me
In domestic news, we are yet to be sent to our proper accommodation so are currently sharing with two other volunteers - Gareth and Jo - whose dry Yorkshire humour is only being dented by a lack of Yorkshire tea. We are getting used to washing everything by hand (dull) and filtering our water (always runs out when you're in a hurry), but otherwise compared to a lot of the rural placements our flat is quite luxurious, with running water, electric shower and flush toilet.
We are also starting to think about stretching our wings and exploring further afield, with a possible visit to Lake Turkana at Christmas on the cards.
We hope to have some photos for you soon, but we are being hampered by a) our concern that we might have our cameras nicked if we take them anywhere interesting and b) that we can't find a good enough internet connection to upload the images to the blog. We will try to resolve this so you can see what we're up to properly. Tuanani!
My first week at work has generally been good - the team are lovely, although quite stretched. I'm working from home today while the electricity is down in Umoja, but in the office on Saturday for a meeting of the regional coordinators where I'll be running a SWOT and PEST brainstorm - hope it goes well!
Things I have seen outside my office this week:
- a camel
- a herd of cows
- live chickens in baskets
- sofas for sale
- pineapples
- a man shouting 'sister Rooney, sister Rooney!' at me
In domestic news, we are yet to be sent to our proper accommodation so are currently sharing with two other volunteers - Gareth and Jo - whose dry Yorkshire humour is only being dented by a lack of Yorkshire tea. We are getting used to washing everything by hand (dull) and filtering our water (always runs out when you're in a hurry), but otherwise compared to a lot of the rural placements our flat is quite luxurious, with running water, electric shower and flush toilet.
We are also starting to think about stretching our wings and exploring further afield, with a possible visit to Lake Turkana at Christmas on the cards.
We hope to have some photos for you soon, but we are being hampered by a) our concern that we might have our cameras nicked if we take them anywhere interesting and b) that we can't find a good enough internet connection to upload the images to the blog. We will try to resolve this so you can see what we're up to properly. Tuanani!
15 November 2010
Everything becomes normal
It is amazing how quickly everything feels normal; the white-knuckle matatu rides into town, the complete lack of personal space as you wander around, the torrential downpour followed by bright sunshine.
Suffice it to say we are settling in, today is the first day of work for Allys and commuting to work will make most places feel normal, I suspect. We have moved out of the hotel and hence outside of the little bubble we were being kept in, now we are living in an apartment in Langata a new build complex overlooking Kibera.
Certainly, the process of moving in and going to the supermarket to buy a kettle was more normal than I would have preferred, but not every day is an adventure sometimes you just want a cup of coffee.
However, the juxtaposition of Kibera's informal settlement with a new build apartment complex containing Kenya's new burgeoning middle class is striking (pictures will follow) is striking. It shows how far Kenya has come and yet how far it has to go.
Suffice it to say we are settling in, today is the first day of work for Allys and commuting to work will make most places feel normal, I suspect. We have moved out of the hotel and hence outside of the little bubble we were being kept in, now we are living in an apartment in Langata a new build complex overlooking Kibera.
Certainly, the process of moving in and going to the supermarket to buy a kettle was more normal than I would have preferred, but not every day is an adventure sometimes you just want a cup of coffee.
However, the juxtaposition of Kibera's informal settlement with a new build apartment complex containing Kenya's new burgeoning middle class is striking (pictures will follow) is striking. It shows how far Kenya has come and yet how far it has to go.
7 November 2010
Tunakaa katiki Naiorbi
So after an uneventful journey here we are in Nairobi. We're feeling pretty at home to be honest: VSO have put us up in a nice guesthouse in a posh bit of town, all the bars have the premiership football on at full blast and even the weather is making us feel at home, with consistent lukewarm drizzle. We have also been bonding nicely with our fellow volunteers.
As the title might suggest, we have started learning Swahili. It's been something of a crash course so we have a lot of learning still to do, but at least the basics have been explained so we have some kind of grammatical context. So far 'bia baridi' (cold beer) and 'asante sana' (thank you) seem to be most useful, but we'll see if that develops over the coming months.
Tomorrow we move onto the health and security briefing so this might be where we start getting scared...
As the title might suggest, we have started learning Swahili. It's been something of a crash course so we have a lot of learning still to do, but at least the basics have been explained so we have some kind of grammatical context. So far 'bia baridi' (cold beer) and 'asante sana' (thank you) seem to be most useful, but we'll see if that develops over the coming months.
Tomorrow we move onto the health and security briefing so this might be where we start getting scared...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)